Day 5: Franklin, NC to Chelsea, AL

Before discussing the day's travels, we would like to pay respect to all the frogs who were strangled by the torrential rains that accompanied us on our trip from Franklin, NC to the Alabama State Line on I-59. Looking like the Michelin Man might not be as cool as a leather jacket and old blue jeans, but warm and dry is the coolest look going when the Almighty wants to reenact Noah's Ark during a motorbike trip. And that expression; that is dazed exhaustion.

Today's "Song of the Day" selections (in this order):
-Rain, Rain by Bill Frisell
-Dazed and Confused by Led Zeppelin
-Winter Always Turns to Spring by Bill Frisell
-Ghost Town/Poem for Eva by Bill Frisell (this song was used in the film Walk the Line)

We started the day's trip off with a stop by The Rathskeller Coffee Haus in downtown Franklin. The Rathskeller has one of our favorite coffee drinks anywhere, the Cuban. Being drenched after the nine mile trip from the Triple J to downtown, we needed a Cuban or two to help us make it to our next stop in Cleveland, TN.
The rain from Franklin to Cleveland, TN was the hardest we'd yet seen, but with a temperature in the 56-degree range, we felt all warm and cozy compared to Wednesday and Thursday. By the time we stopped in Cleveland, I had to tape garbage bags around my feet because my boots were so full of water. Shane had another fried bologna sandwich, but it wasn't even close to the Big Boss.

From Cleveland we made our way through Chattanooga,TN; or so I'm told. I'm pretty sure we took all the right exits in Chattanooga, but I never got a clear sense of where we were. The hour between Cleveland and the Alabama line were definitely more "riding by faith and not by sight" than anything else. The rain was so heavy that visibility was limited to less than a quarter mile; by far the worst rain of the entire trip. And then we crossed into Alabama.

As soon as we entered Central Standard Time the sky got blue, the clouds got white and puffy, and the sun was shining. We stopped in Fort Payne (former sock capital of the world), took off all the rain gear, and had one of the most enjoyable hour and a half sections of the trip as we made our way home. Dogwoods were blooming and there was green, Spring-looking stuff everywhere. Other than the Mt. Pisgah, NC section of the Parkway, this was the best-looking scenery of the trip. We made it back to Chelsea around 7:20, parked and unloaded the bikes, and went home. It was a good trip.

Total Mileage for Relay on the Ridge 2009 (Mon. 03/23-Fri. 03/27): 1,745.5 miles

Donation Total Thus Far: $597.00
Thanks to Sarah and G.W. Weldon (Nanny and Paw Paw) and Dawn and Mike Arnold for their contributions.

Donations can be made until April 30th. Thank you for your support.

Day 4: Kernersville to Franklin, NC

Today began the same way yesterday ended; cold and rainy. There were also all-day fog advisories for the Greensboro area. The first 105-mile stretch of our trip down I-40 was a foggy mess. We stopped for lunch at Exit 100 and found the day's biggest unexpected surprise: The Big Boss Bologna sandwich. Imagine a monster thick-burger made of fried bologna...that's right; coronary on a kaiser roll.

Sitting at the diner also gave us a chance to rehash some of yesterday's interesting happenings. Shane's trip in the roll-back was topped off by the truck driver's story about a "blind-in-one-eye killer chihuahua" that "took care of a doberman." One lesson we've learned on this trip: Any time someone starts a story off with "It's funny how...", get ready for a whopper. For instance: "It's funny how a dog will turn on you. And it don't matter what kind of dog, neither. I had this chihuahua..."
We also discussed Harold's comment about our camping idea. Harold, if you'll remember, has traveled the entire western hemisphere on a motorbike. He walked in to the Lynchburg shop and said: "Who's Alabama bikes?" When we told him they were ours, his follow-up comment was priceless. It went as follows:

Harold: "Those tent rolls?"
Shane: "Yes, sir."
Harold: "I went camping twice in my life."
Shane (with Josh nodding stupidly): "Is that right?"
Harold: "Yep. The first night and the last night were one in the same. Even left the tent. There's a reason they make hotels."

Harold is a smart, smart man.

The last half of today's riding also took an unexpectedly nice turn: upon hitting Asheville, NC, we also hit a warm patch with this strange stuff called sunshine intermingled with puffy clouds. Being cold and wet for several days will make one appreciate small (actually really freaking big) things like warm air and sunshine.

We arrived in Franklin, NC around 5:00 pm EST at the luxurious Triple J Ranch. The Triple J is owned and operated by my Nanny and Paw Paw (who are in Alabama right now waiting on us to get back). This is one of the greatest places on Earth. It offers everything one could want in a vacation spot, especially if everything you want is sleeping for nine hours a day and eating your fool brains out. Since the Triple J is the starting point for the final leg of the trip, we got some pictures of the bikes after the nasty conditions that plagued us over the past two days.

Above are the bikes in full rain gear. Everything stayed dry, so no worries there. Below are several pictures of the nasty stuff:Despite the nasty weather, the mechanical issues, the complete unwinding of the meager plans we made, and all the other unexpected bumps in the road, The Journey has not beaten us. We've made it back to my home-away-from-home safe and in one (or no more than two) pieces. We've accomplished a daunting feat: as of 6:00 pm EST today, we've traveled 1,421 miles in four days. For those of you doing the long division on that, figure about 650 of those miles as non-interstate. To get a more accurate picture of how those miles compare to highway miles, multiply by a factor of 2.87 or two and six-eighths (whichever strikes your fancy). At the end of the day, we made it safe and sound to The Triple J. That'll do for us.
P.S. - Those are not exhausted and dazed looks on our faces...the flash just went off when we weren't expecting it.

Tomorrow should be spent exploring Franklin and then getting back to Alabama. Since it looks like the weather will break for the day, we're going to get out while the getting is good. Before we leave, we've got an appointment with some Cubans...(don't worry; it's a local coffee drink, not a cigar).

Special Thanks to Frank Farrell for having the heat on and the Triple J ready for our arrival.

The Following is a Super-Secret Encoded Message for all members of AFEP:

We still have The Fire.

Day 3: The Ridge, The Roll-Back, and the Riders on the Storm

Cloudy. Windy. Rainy. Cold. Cormac McCarthy must have taken this same trip once. Our first stop was around 8:30 am EST at Onion Mountain. No sun in sight. We pushed ahead, thinking the last 120 miles (very scenic, unlike yesterday's Virginia leg of the Relay) would go smoothly enough and we could hit I-81 and scoot on down to Asheville, NC by dinner. When we stopped in Fairfield, VA for gas at 10:00 am (Outside temp: 37 degrees), Shane discovered that The Bull had slung a shoe. Steel belt was visible in the center of his rear tire. This left us with about 28 miles of the Parkway incomplete and El Toro in need of an El Tow Truck. Fortunately, my HRCA (Honda's version of AAA) membership expires next week, so we were able to get a tow truck for no cost to get The Bull to Lynchburg, VA (58 miles away). We had covered Mile 120-28 together, but this is where two paths diverged in the Relay...

The Ridge
Determined to complete the entire Parkway for the Relay, I left Shane waiting at the very warm McDonalds in Fairfield while I hit I-81 North to Waynesboro to finish the remaining 28 miles of the Parkway before the truck arrived. Despite not going exactly in order, I did finish the entire Parkway by 11:05 am and began my flight back to the Fairfield McDonalds.
The view of the Shenandoah Valley from the Parkway was spectacular; well worth the effort to get there. After covering the last 28 miles (from Mile o - Mile 28) of the Parkway and getting some very strange looks from the few other travelers on the road (all in cars, by the way), I made it back to Fairfield only to be informed by our friend at McDonalds that Shane, The Bull, and the Roll-Back left 15 minutes before I arrived. Thus began my pursuit of...

The Roll-Back
The Roll-Back arrived to pick up The Bull around 11:30 am. It is worth noting that this is the first time that The Bull has been hauled anywhere.
Once he was loaded up, The Bull and Shane took the Roll-Back to Lynchburg, VA via some of the curviest public highways known to man. The main route to Lynchburg is the Washington-Lee Highway (Highway 501) that is home to the picturesque campus of Washington & Lee University. Along the route, the driver stopped to pick up two hitchhikers who, by their account, were Florida State students (recent graduates, perhaps) who had been hiking the Appalachian Trail since February 19th. Their reported reason for hitting the highway after 800 miles of AT was to visit one's sister, who lived somewhere on Highway 29.
The Bull arrived at Honda of Lynchburg around 12:45 pm with the Pale Rider (XXXL white helmet, shiny silver rainsuit, and frozen skin that has the same complexion as a jar of Helmann's) arriving within 7 minutes of The Bull's off-loading. After warming up and getting settled in for the repair wait, we met Harold. Harold is retired from General Electric, and in the 11 years since his retirement he has taken dual-sport bikes (KLRs, etc.) through all of Central and South America and completed the Iron Butt circumference of the US eight times on Goldwings. Harold was a real-deal rider with some pretty cool stories, but he wasn't one of those braggadocios bravado types. He had legitimate stories about the sights and sounds of Central America that were verified by Shane's experiences in the same locations. The stories about the Chicken Buses in Honduras and the killer speed bumps in the Mexican countryside were pretty funny. Once Harold left and The Bull was ready to charge ahead, we set out again. By now, the weather was a big factor.

Riders on the Storm
First off, it's no where near as cool as The Doors make it sound. Cold and wet are not a good combination. Being cold is one thing, but instantaneous freezing at 65 mph is a complete other. This was the dreariest weather I've seen in a while; it was straight out of a Hemingway novel. I kept an eye on the side of the road for The Man and The Boy pushing their shopping cart (read Cormac McCarthy's The Road - Papa Hemingway would've approved). We traveled about 135 miles to Kernersville, NC, just outside the Wake Forest arm of the Research Triangle. Since we pushed through a frigid, wet day on the road (the highest temperature of the day: 41 degrees), we made camp at the Holiday Inn Express. It's much better than the Days Inn in Roanoke (I slept fully clothed it was so bad). To prove we made camp, notice the cookware and coffee pot in the picture below:That's right. Even though we stayed at the Holiday Inn, we still ate like hardcore campers. And then I had a half of a pot of Colombian Supremo, then chased it with some Advil and a hot shower. Riding cold and wet for seven to ten (Shane: 7; Josh: 10) hours is enough hardcore adventure for one day. I'm sure we'll find something hardcore to do in Franklin, NC tomorrow...Until then, I have some Colombian Supremo and some Advil calling my name.

Day 2 Continued...Spruce Pine, NC to Roanoke, VA

After the Spruce Pine, NC detour, we found our way back onto the Parkway and made it to Grandfather Mountain (Mile 300 - pictured above) before hitting another detour through Boone, NC. The second detour was on good curvy roads through bucolic Boone and only lasted for nine miles.

We ultimately stopped for the night in Roanoke, VA (Mile 120) at the Days Inn. Before anyone snickers at the "hardcore" guys from last night's campsite, the weather forecast for tomorrow should be considered. The high temperature for tomorrow in Roanoke is 43 degrees with an 80% chance of rain. That said, a warm bed and a good night's sleep was the smart, safe option. We feel hardcore enough having gone from Mile 410 (Mt. Pisgah) to Mile 120 in one day at an average speed of 40 mph. In the course of today's 340-mile day (the first detour was a big one), the wind was our biggest problem. The photo below is from Mile 168 at The Saddle Overlook near Woolwine, VA, where the wind almost got the better of us. Had this photo been a video clip, the viewer would be looking at a Honda 919, The Bull, and a Mexican Jumping Shane...and yes, jumping does help keep warm.

Roanoke, VA (despite its historical penchant for getting lost) looks a lot like any suburb of Birmingham, AL, so the pictures should resume tomorrow once we get back on the Parkway. The Virgnia leg of the Parkway isn't nearly as scenic as the North Carolina leg and, coupled with the problematic weather forecast, we'll likely get to Waynesboro, VA before lunch tomorrow and hit I-81 and get close to Asheville, NC by tomorrow evening. If the weather in Franklin, NC has cleared by Friday, we have an addition to the trip that might prove to be pretty exciting. For more details on the Surprise Addition to Relay on the Ridge, tune in tomorrow. Same Bat Time, Same Bat Channel.

P.S. - We did use our camp burner and cookware to eat dinner in the room at the Days Inn. All that dehydrated food need not go unused...

Day 2: Camping in Waynesville, NC to Spruce Pine, NC

Last night, we wound up making camp in Waynesville (about 25 miles off the Parkway). This morning, we awoke to ice on the bike covers; pretty hardcore if you ask me. We ate breakfast and packed up camp in a couple of hours. The best part of breakfast was definitely the Colombian Supremo from Ekklesia.

We hit the Parkway at Mt. Pisgah and made it to Black Mountain before having to detour up I-40 for about 45 miles. That puts us in Spruce Pine, NC at a McDonald's. The locals are warning us about rain for the rest of the week. The weather has been pleasant thus far; we'll continue to include sunshine in our morning prayer request list (along with no mechanical issues, no banjo players, etc.). We hope to reach Peaks of Otter by tonight. We'll update if we find a signal.

Donation Total Thus Far: $517.00
Thanks to Bev Johnson for her donation.

Day 1: Chelsea to Mt. Pisgah (& Beyond)

We left out from Chelsea this morning around 8:00 after a pancake breakfast at Ekklesia (yes, they have pancakes). We made good time and the weather was great. We made it to the End of the Parkway (Mile 469) at the entrance to the Great Smokey Mountains National Park and traveled backwards to Mile 409 at Mt. Pisgah. Camping on the Parkway will likely be problematic since it is so early in the season. Tonight, we've had to come back to Waynesville, NC to find an open campground. The bookstore we're in warming up is closing in ten minutes, so today's post will be short unless we can find another source of wi-fi.

The road conditions on the Parkway are good and tomorrow should be less hectic than today. We traveled a total of 425 miles; tomorrow should be half that. That being said, updates will probably occur midday during through Thursday and will cover the previous night's events and everything up to lunch on the day of the post. This seems like the best option logistically. Donations will be updated on Friday. Until then, it's all about the journey. Tomorrow should net some really good pictures of the Parkway. Stay tuned...

Indy Cars, Vintage Bikes, and a Flying Bull

Today was a great (and pretty full) day. It started with an exciting trip to the Barber Motorsports Park with Bruce, Bev, and Leslie to watch the Indy Car Trials. Barber's is a fantastic venue with a world-class motorcycle museum and a track that rivals any on Earth. Hearing and seeing those cars fly by on the track in near-perfect weather was a great way to spend an afternoon.

I also got to take a ride on my 1970 Triumph TR6R (pictured below). This bike exemplifies what a motorcycle should be. Brit bikes are known to be pretty quirky, but this is what I think of when I think classic motorcycle. Maybe I've watched The Great Escape or seen Evel Knievel jump the fountain at Caesar's Palace on YouTube too many times, but I think old Triumphs are cool.

In trying to side-step sounding too philosophical, the one concrete principle a vintage British motorcycle can and will teach a person is: "There are no big hammers." Patience, a parts manual, and WD-40 are the best friends an amateur can have in learning how to fix things. Oh, and it also teaches one that Lucas electronics are really that bad.

Preparations for Relay on the Ridge continued at the Thunderdome (my dad's garage), where The Bull got an oil change and the last of our gear got stowed. The Bull even acted like it wanted to fly...

Everything looks good for a Monday morning departure from Ekklesia Coffee House in Chelsea. Tomorrow should be a relaxing day since everything that can be done has been done. The toughest part now will be coming to grips with what John Steinbeck (yes, we like Steinbeck) wrote about trips: "A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike...We find that after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us."

Donation Total Thus Far: $467.00

Thanks to Elizabeth Mayfield for her contribution.

The Bull is ready. Are you?

Getting Ready to Hit the Road

Today's preparation went much smoother than yesterday. The new battery from Batteries Plus in Trussville fit just right and the bike kicked off immediately. Loading the luggage onto the bike was also easier than expected. I've had difficulty in the past with the throw-over panniers, but they fit nicely over the new seat. Since everything has been itemized on my master list, it should go without saying that I'm comfortable with the organization of the luggage. For some reason I find it comforting that there's a place for everything, and everything's in its place.

I took the bike for a two-mile test run with all the gear on board to get a feel for braking, cornering, and steering. There is enough weight on the bike to make it feel like I'm carrying a mid-sized passenger, so adjustments will be made accordingly. The first adjustment will be the dismount. With all the luggage on board, slinging my big size 14 over the seat looks about as graceful as one of those Monty Python Spamalot knights.

Besides being comforted by the tediousness of packing, I am pretty excited about the trip as it inches closer. In Travels with Charley, John Steinbeck said: "In long-range planning for a trip, I think there is a private conviction that it won't happen." Such has been my experience in trying to plan a trip. This time, however, it looks like it might actually come off. The Bull will get a fluid change on Saturday and we'll get everything else as finalized as possible. With four days left until we embark, everything looks pretty well set.

Donation Total Thus Far: $367.00

Two Steps Forward...

Packing everything was finalized today. Between the top box, throw-over panniers, tank bag, and sleeping bag roll, there is enough gear on this bike to make for a good escape from reality. All the gear fit nicely and has been itemized on a master list, so when I forget where I put something I won't need to dig aimlessly through everything. The trick will be not losing the list...

As I was attempting to load the luggage onto the bike, I discovered that the battery (the original from 2004) is dead. Fortunately, Batteries Plus had one locally that I'm going to pick up tomorrow. I was frustrated about incurring the cost of a new battery, but Leslie (my lovely, optimistic wife who always finds the silver lining) pointed out that I could have discovered my need for a new battery near Mt. Pisgah, NC in the rain. Good point. I did point out to her that, while it may be true that every cloud has a silver lining, thousands of people die from lighting strikes each year trying to find it...

With five days until departure, I'm actually looking forward to the trip and feel that we are as prepared as possible.

Donation Total Thus Far: $367.00
Thanks to everyone who has donated. Please continue to help us hit our goal of $1500.

St. Patrick's Day and Tunes for the Trip

Today being St. Patrick's Day, my family celebrated our favorite Irish saint by ingesting massive quantities of corned beef, sauerkraut, potatoes, and any other quasi-Irish food. These world-famous Reuben sandwiches are made by my equally world-famous Paw Paw, who deserves his own holiday.
Taking a break to eat a Reuben (or three) before the big trip was a nice way to relax and try to get mentally prepared for the trip. Hopefully a little Irish luck will ensure weather on the Parkway as good as what we had today in Alabama. After asking forgiveness for gluttony, I'll be sure to pray for good weather.
The one big thing that was accomplished today regarding Relay on the Ridge was setting up the mp3 player with my "Tunes for the Trip" playlist. Briefly, the list will include:

- Bill Frisell's Good Dog, Happy Man (his version of Shenandoah will likely be Wednesday's song of the day as we roll through Waynesboro, Virginia)
- Aaron Copeland's Billy the Kid
- Thelonious Monk's Live at the It Club
- Todd Brasher's Church Hymnal (local bassist extraordinaire - check the website in the links section, then go buy the album)
- Flogging Molly's Alive Behind the Green Door (there are Irish people in them thar hills...).

The playlist will likely be used once we hit the Parkway. The superslab ride up to Cherokee, NC will be time for the hum of the highway to clear my mind (think Gregorian Chants via asphalt) and get relaxed and focused; two things not regularly accomplished by full-time teachers/law students. Six days until departure.

Donation Total Thus Far: $367.00
Thanks to Dale Calvin for his contribution.

Spring Break off to a Muddy Start

Saturday, March 14 was the start of Shelby County's Spring Break week. It was nice to see about ten students give up their first day of sleeping late to arrive at school at 6:30am to go work on a Habitat for Humanity job in Montevallo. The rain never really stopped, so the outside work we were able to do was done in awful conditions. Running up an extension ladder with mud on every rung will quickly coat an entire wardrobe in Alabama's finest red clay. Jim Adams, in conjunction with St. Andrew's Episcopal Church, coordinated the day's work. Despite the weather, the day was a big success. The cops did show up, but it wasn't anything our group did...
Habitat is a great program that requires financial responsibility and 300 hours of "sweat equity" for people to qualify for a Habitat House. The above picture doesn't do justice to how nice this house will look upon completion. It has a nice layout and will make a nice home for the deserving family we met.

Planning for Relay on the Ridge is getting down to the wire. Packing is just about complete and all of the supplies have almost been purchased. St. Patrick's Day should see the first full packing of the bikes in time to break for Reubens and Constitutional Law by 6:00 pm. Seven days until departure...

Donation Total Thus Far: $267.00
Thanks to Pam Lightsey for her contribution.

Meet the Bikes: Part II

Meet The Bull. If the name sounds ominous, that's because The Bull is ominous. To avoid the retelling of The Legend of The Bull, go re-read Pecos Bill and the Cyclone. Everywhere the story says "Pecos Bill," insert "Shane." Everywhere the story says "Cyclone," insert "The Bull." That gets as close to the story of The Bull as is possible in this limited space.
The Bull has been on numerous journeys; too many to recount. It will suffice to say that there is no place The Bull fears to trod; usually at speeds that would make mere mortals tremble. The Bull is also a wily beast, whose motto is: "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with Bull..."
On a less frightening note, preparations for the trip are continuing nicely. Hand warmers, first aid kits, tire plugs, and a clothes line are this week's acquisitions. Most of the packing and staging activities will likely be done next week (March 16-20) with the obligatory break for St. Patrick's Day and Reubens.
Saturday, March 14, will be spent helping the Shelby County High School FCA (Fellowship of Christian Athletes) on a Habitat for Humanity project in Montevallo, Alabama. The project is being led by Coach Jim Adams, one of the greatest people I've ever worked with. Pictures from the job site will be posted upon completion.

Donation Total Thus Far: $247.00
Special thanks to TB and AFEP for their grant. We appreciate all of your support.

Remember...
...The Bull is watching.

Campgrounds & Coffee

Saturday was spent mapping out campsites and dividing up the supply list. I was surprised to find that most campgrounds offer free wi-fi. Are we all that addicted to being constantly connected (asks the guy with the blog)? Since most of the NPS campgrounds do not open until May, it looks like we'll be supporting the KOA on a frequent basis.
The remainder of the planning for Relay on the Ridge will likely occur at Ekklesia Coffee House in Chelsea. Ekklesia is an authentic local establishment where you order in sizes known to those who use the Queen's English. Even the coffee they buy is local, so it is the freshest stuff available.
Sunday was scheduled as a trial run on setting up the new tent (a Eureka Solitaire 2), but the snow put a damper on that activity. The only concern with my tent is that it lacks the requisite head room...

Donation Total Thus Far: $222.00
Thanks to Kathy Galloway for her contribution.